KELLI STANKO / Special to the Daily News

Pechuga de pato con higos y Oporto, Duck breast with port and figs. IM Tapas is located at 465 4th Ave N in Naples.

KELLI STANKO / Special to the Daily News

Combinado de embutidos espanoles, Plate of imported serrano ham, pork loin and chorizos.

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Spain. Long, sunny days, even longer, happening nights. Mid-afternoon lunches, followed by dramatic sunsets and no dinner in sight until midnight.

How do the Spanish do it? How do they survive without food until 12 a.m.? Tapas.

Sharing small plates and washing the food down with sangria has always been a favorite summer activity of mine: Tapas give you the freedom of ordering many different dishes and you can try new foods without being stuck with a plateful of something you don’t like too much.

A new restaurant in downtown Naples offers the flavors of old Spain with the sophistication and flair of a modern, multicultural city: I.M. Tapas.

Located on Fourth Avenue North, the restaurant’s tinted windows give nothing away, creating an aura of mystery as you approach the front door. There are no tables outside and the only sign of life on the sidewalk is the neon “Open” sign shining under the awning .

Once we walk inside, however, we’re stunned. If the outside looked a little cold and colorless, the inside looks like a combination of a modern art gallery and chic, European restaurant. The only American accent is the big, wooden bar running along side most of the left section of the dining room. On this night, I.M. Tapas is not empty or packed, probably because 8:15 p.m. is late by Naples’ standards — even on a Saturday night.

The almost all-girl staff amiably welcomes us at the door, settling us in at a nice table with a little breathing room. The walls are painted a warm shade of yellow and the minimalist style of furniture gives away such a chic, European vibe I start feeling that this might very well be the real thing.

The menu offerings are copious and range from the very traditional to the well-out-of-the-box. A quick look at the soups makes me yearn for some gazpacho ($4.95), the traditional Spanish tomato and cucumber chilled soup, but I decide to go for the cold cut platter of Serrano ham, chorizo and lomo ($20) with two glasses of home-made sangria ($8 each).

When the dish arrives, we suddenly understand why the price was so high: There is enough meat to feed four on the big, white square serving plate. Both the Serrano ham, the Spanish version of Italian prosciutto, and the loin are as tasty and fresh as you would expect them to be in a restaurant in Seville or Madrid. Drizzled with a few drops of olive oil, they are so good we can’t stop stuffing our faces. The fresh chorizo — which is completely different from the dry kind you find in grocery stores and Mexican restaurants — is even better with a more silky texture and delicate flavor. The bread keeps coming, always warm and fragrant, and the dining room slowly fills up.

Apparently, even in Naples, people who love tapas also embrace the Spanish philosophy of dining late. More than satisfied with our starter, we browse the menu again, sipping sangria packed with apples and peaches. Although we noticed a made-to-order paella ($25-$35 per person), we opt for more tapas. The variety of dishes offered makes it difficult to choose: the seafood section is extensive and offers Spanish classics such as bacalao (salted cod fish) and langostinos (prawns in garlic), as well as scallops and tuna. As lovely as all of this sounded, when I see the duck breast glazed with port and figs ($15), I can’t resist it. We also order the beef tenderloin with blue cheese and caramelized onions ($15.50).

All the tapas are prepared to order, explained our waitress, so it usually takes at least 10 minutes to get your food. We’re in no hurry. I.M. Tapas is cozy and romantic, the perfect spot for a date whether it’s your first or your 10-year anniversary.

The duck, which is sweeter and more delicate than the beef, is appropriately served first. The presentation is perfect: Slices of duck cooked medium rare, drizzled with a thick port wine sauce and accompanied by figs, are tidily arranged on a small, rectangular plate. After one bite I wished that the portion was bigger, which is a familiar feeling for tapas lovers. The dark sweetness of the figs and the robust flavor of the port compliment the duck breast, and the meat is so tender it almost melts in your mouth.

The beef tenderloin arrives shortly after we’re done with the duck and is no less delicious. Small, thick slices of filet mignon share the plate with a small mound of caramelized onions and a dollop of blue cheese. We fall in love with the sweet and salty combo of tender onions and tangy cheese.

As we finish our third dish, our waitress tempts us with one of my favorite desserts: crema Catalana ($7). A Spanish version of the more popular crème brulée, this treat is worth ordering. It’s soft and sweet on the bottom, crunchy and bittersweet on top.

Good atmosphere, a knowledgeable and friendly staff, incredible ingredients and a gifted chef make I.M. Tapas a wonderful new spot in town. If you’re in the mood for something new and are craving masterfully prepared food, this small gem won’t disappoint you.

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If you go: I.M. Tapas

965 Fourth Ave. N., Naples

403-8272

Hours: 5:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday until close

Cuisine: Spanish and tapas

Service: Attentive, competent and friendly

Atmosphere: Romantic and sophisticated

Noise and light levels: Never too noisy and pleasantly dimly lit

Prices: Tapas range from $8 to $20, specialty dishes, such as paella from $25 to $35

Value: Good value considering the freshness of ingredients and the variety of options

Verdict: Chic and romantic, I.M. Tapas is a great spot for people who enjoy traditional and creative Spanish food in a sophisticated atmosphere.